Founder index · Stüssy · 2015–present
David Sinatra
The lesson that travels
“Treat a record year as an accident rather than a target. The revenue you refuse is often the thing that keeps the brand worth buying.”
Sinatra did not found Stüssy and is no relation to the singer. His father, Frank Sinatra Jr., was the certified public accountant who partnered with Shawn Stussy in 1984, ran the business side for twelve years, bought Stussy's half when he left in 1996, and kept the company profitable through the worst year in its history by leaning on Japan and a new design team. David grew up around the brand and was its chief executive by 2015, at 28; the Business of Fashion called him president in 2018, and the Orange County Business Journal listed him as CEO in 2021.
His stated philosophy is "brand first, revenue second". In 2015 he told the Business of Fashion that the company had "reluctantly" done over $50 million the previous year — "it was an accident" — and that it was trying to cut back and stay small rather than become "this big monstrosity that doesn't stand for anything". The decision that goes with those words is the reported 2014 cut of about $30 million of wholesale accounts and the pivot to owned stores, which the company calls chapters: London in 2018, Paris in 2022, Milan, Chengdu and a large Nolita flagship in 2024. He has also kept the tribe idea alive as policy, hiring store staff from the brand's own fans and describing collaborations with Union and Dover Street Market as projects that probably lose money but keep the friends interested.
The contested part is the scale of what he is now building. Restraint was easy to promise at $50 million; the store expansion and the Nike collaborations of the 2020s are the most growth the company has pursued since the early 1990s, and the family does not publish the numbers that would show whether the order of brand first and revenue second has held. He has also had chances to sell — he joked in 2018 that "all the bankers came running" after Carlyle invested in Supreme — and has not. On the evidence available, he is a steward who has made the brand more valuable than he found it, and the test of that claim is still running.
§01 — The hard calls
- 2014
Cut a reported $30 million of wholesale accounts and pivot toward owned stores.
Fewer doors, more control over how the brand is presented and priced. The company opened a run of chapter stores from 2018 onward.
- 2015
Keep doing collaborations that lose money — Union, Dover Street Market — because they keep the tribe engaged.
Marketing paid in credibility rather than media. The Nike collaborations of 2020 and 2022 are the commercial version of the same idea.
- 2018
Decline outside capital as private equity circles streetwear after the Carlyle investment in Supreme.
Stüssy remains family-owned. Supreme was sold to VF for $2.1 billion in 2020 and resold for $1.5 billion in 2024.
- 2024
Open flagships in Milan and Chengdu and return to Prince Street with a 5,600-square-foot store.
Too early to grade. The largest retail commitment in the company's history, and the real test of brand first, revenue second.
One of these is set up as a tutorial — you make the call before you find out what David did.
Face the decision§02 — Around this founder
The company
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