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The Founder's Notes

The founder index

Every case has a person in it who had to decide without knowing.

The companies are the subject; the founders are the reason the companies went one way rather than another. Each entry carries the one lesson that survives outside its industry — the thing a person building something entirely different could still use.

01Audio

Amar Bose

Bose · 1929–2013

If you need a long time horizon, do not ask investors for patience. Design a capital structure in which impatience is impossible.

02Audio

James B. Lansing

JBL · 1902–1949

Engineering genius and financial competence are unrelated skills. A founder who cannot secure the second will eventually lose control of the first — and a brand can outlive both.

03Gaming

Ken Kutaragi

PlayStation · b. 1950

A new business inside an old company usually dies of internal opposition, not market failure. Survival depends less on being right than on securing exactly one protector senior enough to overrule everyone else.

04Gaming

Seamus Blackley

Xbox · b. 1968

The most reliable way to get a large company to fund a new business is to frame it as defence of the old one. It works — and it also determines how the project is judged for the next twenty years.

05Beauty

Charlotte Tilbury

Charlotte Tilbury · 2013–present

An apprenticeship is an asset with a balance sheet value. Tilbury spent twenty years becoming the person whose judgment was worth paying for, and then charged for the judgment rather than the pigment.

06Beauty

Arinobu Fukuhara

Shiseido · 1872–1915

Being early is a cost, not an advantage, until the customer catches up. Fukuhara opened a Western pharmacy in a country that had not yet decided it wanted one, and survived long enough for it to decide.

07Beauty

Masahiko Uotani

Shiseido · 2014–2024

A coherent strategy and a good one are different things. Uotani made every decision follow from the one before it, and concentrated a 150-year-old company on the one customer he could not control.

08Beauty

Rihanna

Fenty Beauty · 2017–present

The most valuable thing a famous founder can bring is not attention but a fact the incumbents have agreed to ignore. Rihanna's fact was that the deep end of the shade chart had customers, and she made the industry prove it.

09Retail

Dominique Mandonnaud

Sephora · 1969–1997

The most defensible thing you can invent is not a product but a way of selling one. Formats are copied slowly; formulas are copied in a season.

10Beauty

Emily Weiss

Glossier · 2010–2022

An audience is the cheapest customer acquisition there is, and the most expensive thing to mistake for a moat. It lowers the cost of your first thousand customers and does nothing for your millionth.

11Beauty

François Nars

NARS · 1994–present

You can sell the whole company and keep the thing that made it valuable, if you are clear about which of the two you actually own.

12Beauty

Frank Toskan

M.A.C. · 1984–1998

Sell to the professionals first. If the people who do the job for a living choose your product, the consumer market follows without being asked.

13Beauty

Frank Angelo

M.A.C. · 1984–1997

Every artist-founder needs someone who runs the shop. The credibility is one job; the counter, the staff and the payroll are a different one, and brands die when nobody owns the second.

14Consumer

Phil Knight

Nike · 1964–2004, chairman to 2016

A company can be a distributor for years and still be a brand underneath, and the moment to find out is when the supplier walks away.

15Food

Howard Schultz

Starbucks · 1982–2000, 2008–2017, 2022–2023

The product is rarely the thing being bought. Schultz's contribution was identifying that Americans lacked a place to sit between home and work, and pricing coffee as rent on that place.

16Food

Richard and Maurice McDonald

McDonald's · 1937–1961

Inventing the system and owning the system are different achievements, and the second one is what the history books record.

17Food

Ray Kroc

McDonald's · 1954–1984

Find the part of the business that compounds. Kroc's franchisees sold hamburgers; Kroc, once Harry Sonneborn showed him how, collected rent.

18Retail

Ingvar Kamprad

IKEA · 1943–2013

Cost is a design constraint, not an outcome. Kamprad set the price first and made everyone — including the customer — work backwards to reach it.

19Consumer

Chip Wilson

Lululemon · 1998–2015

A founder can create a category and still be the largest single risk to the brand he created. Wilson is the cleanest available example of both facts at once.

20Luxury

Bernard Arnault

LVMH · b. 1949; chairman and chief executive of LVMH since 1989

A name that took a century to build can be bought in an afternoon if you are the only bidder who understands what is inside the wreck. Arnault's career is one insight, applied forty times.

21Retail

Amancio Ortega

Inditex (Zara) · b. 1936; founded Zara 1975; chairman until 2011

Ortega never tried to predict what people would wear. He built a company that could find out on Saturday and have it in the shop by the Saturday after, and let the speed do the thinking.

22Retail

Tadashi Yanai

Uniqlo (Fast Retailing) · b. 1949; president of Fast Retailing since 1984

Yanai's book is called One Win, Nine Losses, and it is not modesty. It is the operating principle of a founder who bet the company on a single fleece and has been trying, and failing, to bet it the same way again ever since.

23Toys

Wang Ning

Pop Mart · 2010–present

The most valuable thing a retailer can learn from its own till is which product the customer is actually buying — and Wang Ning's whole career is the decision to believe the till over the business plan.

24Retail

Silvio Marsan

Brandy Melville · c. 1970–present

A founder can build a brand of enormous value by never speaking, and the same silence that protected the mystique is what left the company with no answer when the mystique was described from the inside.

25Retail

Brian Hill

Aritzia · 1984–present (chief executive to 2022)

You can invent a price tier without inventing a product, if you are willing to own every label on the rack and spend on the room what everyone else spends on advertising.

26Consumer

Terence Reilly

Stanley · 2020–2024

A craze can be manufactured on purpose, by the same person, twice — which proves it is a method, and also proves it is not a moat.

27Consumer

Andrew Rees

Crocs · 2014–present

The thing everyone mocks about your product may be the only thing about it that cannot be copied. Rees stopped apologising for the clog and it became the strategy.

28Toys

William and Thomas Gatacre

Jellycat · 1999–present

Scarcity is not something you add when demand arrives. The Gatacres built the habit of retiring bestsellers when nobody was queuing, so that when people did, the company already knew how to say no.

29Retail

Jim Sinegal

Costco · 1983–2011 as chief executive; director to 2018

Decide what you will not do to earn money, write it down as a rule, and let the rule outlast you. Sinegal's 14% cap is worth more than any single year of margin because it is the reason the members keep paying the fee.

30Retail

Sol Price

Costco · 1954–1994

You can invent an industry and still lose the race to run it. Price built the model twice, taught it to the two men who beat him, and the lesson is that the idea was never the scarce thing — the execution over decades was.

31Luxury

Enzo Ferrari

Ferrari · 1929–1988

Keep the part of the business that you are for, even when someone offers to pay for everything else. Ferrari walked out on Ford over a clause about the racing budget, and the company that resulted is worth more than Ford's car business.

32Toys

Ole Kirk Christiansen

Lego · 1932–1958

Bet the company on the tool, not the product. Christiansen's moulding machine cost more than a year's profit and he did not yet know what to make with it; the brick came later, and the tool was the reason he could make it.

33Toys

Jørgen Vig Knudstorp

Lego · 2004–2016 as chief executive; chairman of the Lego Brand Group since

A turnaround is a subtraction before it is anything else. Knudstorp saved Lego by halving the range, selling the parks and killing every product that did not fit a brick, and only then found the new customers for the old one.

34Media

Walt Disney

Disney · 1923–1966

Own what you make, and then build the places where it is worth the most. Disney lost his first character to a distributor, never let it happen again, and spent the rest of his life drawing arrows between the film and everything the film could sell.

35Media

Bob Iger

Disney · 2005–2020, 2022–2026

When your own creative engine has stalled, buying the people who can fix it is cheaper than pretending it has not. Iger's Pixar deal was expensive by every measure except the one that mattered, which was what Disney Animation would have been worth without it.

36Luxury

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

Chanel · 1883–1971

She did not design clothes people wanted. She designed the life people wanted and sold the clothes that came with it — and then, having built the most valuable brand of her century, gave away 90% of its economics in a contract she never fully understood.

37Luxury

Christian Dior

Dior · 1905–1957

He launched the couture house and the perfume house in the same year, on purpose. The show was never the business; the show was the reason the business worked.

38Luxury

Thierry Hermès

Hermès · 1801–1878

He built a company around a technique rather than a product. The product became obsolete within fifty years; the technique is still what the company sells.

39Luxury

Jean-Louis Dumas

Hermès · 1938–2010 (led Hermès 1978–2006)

He inherited a company whose growth was limited by demand and deliberately rebuilt it into one whose growth is limited by supply. Every advantage Hermès now has descends from that inversion.

40Luxury

Miuccia Prada

Prada Group · b. 1949

The most valuable thing a creative leader can build is a second place to put the ideas that do not fit the first one. Miu Miu cost almost nothing to start and is now a third of the company.

41Luxury

Guccio Gucci

Gucci · 1881–1953

He built the house by studying what wealthy people carried. His heirs nearly destroyed it by studying what wealthy people would sign — a name is an asset only for as long as you refuse to rent it.

42Luxury

Charles Lewis Tiffany

Tiffany & Co. · 1812–1902

He did not compete on price, on craft, or on advertising. He competed on authority — and then wrote the ritual that made the authority permanent.

43Luxury

Philippe Cassegrain

Longchamp · 1937–2020

A product that solves a problem outlives a product that signals status. Le Pliage has been in continuous production since 1993; every fashion handbag launched that year is gone.

44Retail

Mike Jeffries

Abercrombie & Fitch · 1992–2014

A brand built on who it excludes has a customer base that shrinks by design, and the founder who says so out loud is telling you the expiry date.

45Retail

Fran Horowitz

Abercrombie & Fitch · 2014–present (chief executive from 2017)

A rebrand is not a new logo. It is a new answer to the question of who the company is for, and the answer has to show up in the sizing rack before it shows up in the advertising.

46Retail

Don and Doris Fisher

Gap Inc. · 1969–2009

The founders' most valuable act was hiring a merchant who was better than them and letting him run the company for nineteen years — and their most costly was waiting too long to replace him, and then replacing him with the wrong kind of person.

47Retail

Mickey Drexler

Gap Inc. · 1983–2002

A merchant's instinct can build the largest specialty retailer in the world and cannot, on its own, tell you when to stop opening stores.

48Retail

Roy Raymond

Victoria's Secret · 1977–1982

Solving your own problem is a fine way to start a company and a poor way to find its customer. Raymond built a lingerie store for men; the business was worth building only once someone pointed it at women.

49Retail

Les Wexner

Victoria's Secret · 1982–2020

Wexner's gift was seeing what a store was actually for before its owner did. His failure was holding to a definition of the customer for a decade after she had changed — and the question of what he saw, and did not see, is now permanently attached to his name.

50Automotive

Elon Musk

Tesla · 1971–, Tesla chairman from 2004, CEO since 2008

A founder who is also the brand can raise capital nobody else could and then spend the brand on things the company never asked for. Both halves of that arrive together, and no board has yet found a way to keep one without the other.

51Media

Reed Hastings

Netflix · 1960–, CEO 1999–2023, chairman since

The company that replaces you will be built on the thing you are best at. Hastings built the replacement himself, twice, while the original was still making money.

52Technology

Jensen Huang

Nvidia · 1963–, CEO since founding in 1993

The best time to build a platform is a decade before the market for it exists, and the only way to afford that is a profitable business you are willing to tax.

53Technology

Steve Jobs

Apple · 1955–2011

The scarcest executive skill is subtraction. Jobs is remembered for what Apple launched; he was better at what he cancelled.

54Technology

Tim Cook

Apple · 1960–, CEO since 2011

The right successor is not a copy of the founder. It is someone excellent at the discipline the founder found boring — and for Jobs, that was the supply chain and the second decade.

55Technology

Jeff Bezos

Amazon · 1964–, founded Amazon 1994

If you can persuade shareholders to judge you on a different metric, you can make decisions your competitors are structurally forbidden from making.

56Technology

Larry Page & Sergey Brin

Google · Founded Google 1998; stepped back from operations 2019

They did not win by building the best search engine. They won by buying the places people start, before anyone understood those places were for sale.