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The Founder's Notes

Case 34 · Retail · From The Strat, episode 34

TSX: GRGD

Groupe Dynamite

A Montreal mall retailer that runs two women's fashion banners off one design studio and one supply chain: Garage for the teenager, Dynamite for the woman with a job, and, since its 2024 listing, one of the most profitable mall retailers anywhere.

Founded
1975
Founders
Andrew Lutfy (owner-operator; Garage opened in 1975)
Headquarters
Town of Mount Royal, Montreal, Quebec
Moat
Narrow · Process power

“Groupe Dynamite does not try to be one brand for everyone. It is two brands for two customers, with one factory floor of decisions underneath them, and the margin lives in the floor.”

Listen first — The Strat 34 · 9 min

Pick one customer with a full calendar, and dress every hour of it.

Notes on the episode

Revenue

C$1.31B

Fiscal 2025, up 36.7%

Gross margin

63.8%

A mall chain's prices with a branded house's margin

Inventory turnover

9.85x

The number that explains the margin

Bank debt

Nil

From C$149M owed to banks at the 2020 filing

§01 — The business model

Groupe Dynamite designs women's clothing in Montreal, has it made by contract factories (mostly in China, with Bangladesh and Cambodia behind them, according to the IPO documents), and sells it through roughly 300 of its own mall stores and two websites. There is no wholesale, no franchising in North America and no department-store channel. Every garment is sold under one of two names. Garage, the original 1975 banner, sells denim, going-out tops and basics to Generation Z. Dynamite, launched in the mid-1980s, sells to working women in their late twenties and thirties, with a wardrobe pitched as one that goes from the office to the evening without a change. The company calls the result a 'luxury-inspired' model; in plain language it is a vertical specialty retailer selling at mall prices.

What makes the economics unusual is the operating engine underneath the banners. The company develops around 1,800 new styles a year in-house, buys a large share of its range close to the season rather than months ahead, and moves roughly 31% of its items from fabric to shelf in under eight weeks, according to a Stifel note reported in September 2025. Inventory sits at about 45 days of sales and turned 9.85 times in fiscal 2025, which is the number that explains everything else: a retailer that buys late and in small quantities marks down less, and a retailer that marks down less keeps a gross margin that, at 63.8% in fiscal 2025, looks more like a branded house than a mall chain.

The two banners share the studio, the sourcing offices, the distribution centres, the systems and the landlords. That is the second-brand strategy the episode is about, done in the order that works: two clearly different customers, one cost base. A teenager who outgrows Garage has somewhere in the same mall, with the same parent, to go next. The weakness is the mirror image of the strength. Both banners are fashion businesses that live or die on the next season's guess, about three quarters of the product comes from one country, and the whole model rests on mall traffic that the company does not control.

Where the revenue comes from

Stores, Canada and the United States

≈ 81%

Retail revenue of C$1,062M in fiscal 2025, out of C$1,310M. Sales per square foot reached C$952, up 29.7% on the year. Canada has more stores; the US is where nearly all the new ones open (20 gross US openings under Garage in fiscal 2025).

Online, both banners

≈ 19%

C$247.8M in fiscal 2025, up 44%, and 18.9% of revenue. E-commerce came first in the UK, in February 2026, before any store.

Garage versus Dynamite

—

Not disclosed by banner in anything I read. The company reports one segment, which is itself a choice: it wants to be valued as one engine, not two brands.

United Kingdom

—

Garage only, from 2026: online in February, then stores at Bluewater and on Oxford Street in March. Too new to have a number.

Unit economics — C$100 of sales, fiscal 2025 (reported group figures, scaled; not a single item)

RevenueC$100
Cost of sales — product, freight, duties, markdownsC$36
Gross profitC$64
Selling, general and administrative — store staff, marketing, head officeC$28
Depreciation and amortization, including store leasesC$7
Operating incomeC$29

Nearly thirty cents of every dollar becomes operating profit, which is extraordinary for a mall apparel chain — most mall chains earn well under half of that. The gap is not a cheaper factory; it is a smaller markdown bill, because the company buys late, buys small and sells through before it has to discount.

§02 — The moat

Narrow moatProcess powerScale economics

The genuine advantage here is not either brand. Neither Garage nor Dynamite has the pricing power of Aritzia, let alone of a luxury house, and a teenager can buy a near-identical going-out top at Zara, H&M, Shein or Princess Polly. What Groupe Dynamite has is a process: a design-to-shelf loop short enough to react to what is selling this month, a buying discipline that keeps inventory at about 45 days, and two banners sharing all of it. The proof is in the financial statements rather than in the marketing. A gross margin above 63% and inventory turning nearly ten times a year are hard to fake for long, and the margin held through a year of new tariffs.

The second layer is scale economics in a narrow sense. Two banners on one platform spread the studio, the systems and the distribution network across about C$1.3 billion of sales, and Stifel describes the stores as among the busiest traffic drivers in Canadian enclosed malls, which gives the company leverage at the lease table. That leverage was tested in 2020, when the company used court protection to rewrite its leases, and it came out with better terms.

I am calling the moat narrow rather than wide because a process can be copied by anyone patient enough, and the best fast-fashion operators in the world — Inditex above all — already run a faster loop at far larger scale. The advantage is real today because most mall competitors are slower and more indebted. It is an advantage of execution, and execution has to be repeated every season.

Porter's five forces — 5 ticks means the force is squeezing hard

Competitive rivalry

Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, American Eagle, Aritzia at the top end and Shein and Temu at the bottom. Women's fashion is one of the most contested categories in retail, and Groupe Dynamite is a mid-sized player in it.

Threat of new entrants

An online brand with a contract factory and a TikTok account can reach a teenager in weeks. Physical mall scale is harder to copy, but Gen Z does not need a mall to find a top.

Threat of substitutes

Resale, rental and ultra-cheap marketplaces all compete for the same wardrobe budget. Dynamite's working-wardrobe customer is less exposed than Garage's teenager.

Buyer power

Individual shoppers have no bargaining power, but they have perfect freedom to leave. A missed season shows up in comparable sales within a quarter.

Supplier power

Contract factories are plentiful, but about three quarters of product came from China in 2025, which hands real power to trade policy. Mall landlords are the other supplier, and the 2020 restructuring showed the company will use the courts to reset rents.

§03 — The financials

Revenue quality

Strong and, for now, accelerating, with the important caveat that fashion revenue is rented one season at a time. Revenue was C$697M in the fiscal year ended January 2023 and C$801M the year after, then C$958.5M in fiscal 2024 and C$1,310.2M in fiscal 2025 (the year ended 31 January 2026), up 36.7%. Comparable store sales grew 12.3% in fiscal 2024 and 26.7% in fiscal 2025, so most of the growth came from existing stores selling more rather than from new ones. The run continued into fiscal 2026: revenue up 37.0% in the first quarter and 29.8% in the second, although comparable sales slowed from 22.6% to 10.3%. Guidance for the full year was raised in September 2026 to revenue growth of 25–27%. The fiscal year ends on the Saturday nearest the end of January, so 'fiscal 2025' is mostly calendar 2025.

Margin structure

This is the remarkable part. Gross margin was 63.8% in fiscal 2025 and 68.8% in the second quarter of fiscal 2026, against the low 40s at Aritzia and the high 30s to low 40s at most mall chains. Adjusted SG&A fell from 31.2% to 27.3% of sales as revenue outgrew fixed costs. Operating income was C$377.7M, a 28.8% operating margin, and adjusted EBITDA C$477.9M (36.5%). Note what adjusted EBITDA flatters: under IFRS 16 it excludes rent, so the company also publishes an after-rent figure, which was 29.6% for fiscal 2025. That is the number I would compare with American peers. The second-quarter 2026 margin of 44.3% included a one-off C$9.4M tariff refund, and I would not extrapolate from it.

Cash generation

Excellent. Cash from operations was C$420.7M in fiscal 2025 and capital spending C$85.5M, leaving free cash flow of C$335.2M, roughly double the year before. Inventory of only C$51M at year end against C$1.3B of sales is why: the business does not have to fund a warehouse full of next season's guesses. Return on capital employed was 70.3% on the company's own definition.

Balance sheet

No bank debt at the end of fiscal 2025, which is the clearest change from 2020, when the company owed C$149.4M to a four-bank syndicate. Cash was C$82.5M, with C$312M undrawn on credit facilities. The liabilities that matter are leases, C$477M, which the company counts as its whole net debt (net leverage 0.83x adjusted EBITDA). Shareholders' equity is small, C$93.9M, because the company has returned cash and reorganised its holding structure; that is an accounting fact, not a solvency concern. Control is the real balance-sheet issue: Andrew Lutfy's holding company owns about 92.6M of roughly 110M shares, including all of the multiple-voting shares.

Revenue

C$1,310M

Up 36.7% from C$958.5M

Fiscal 2025, year ended 31 January 2026

Comparable store sales growth

26.7%

On top of 12.3% the year before

Fiscal 2025

Gross margin

63.8%

68.8% in Q2 fiscal 2026, a four-year high

Fiscal 2025

Operating income

C$377.7M

28.8% of revenue; adjusted EBITDA C$477.9M (36.5%)

Fiscal 2025

Free cash flow

C$335.2M

Up 105%; capital spending C$85.5M

Fiscal 2025

Net earnings

C$252.2M

Diluted EPS C$2.20, from C$1.25

Fiscal 2025

Inventory turnover

9.85x

From 8.54x; about 45 days of sales on Stifel's estimate

Fiscal 2025

Stores

307

Canada, the US and, from March 2026, the UK

August 2026

§04 — The valuation

Market capitalisation

≈ C$5.8B

About C$53 a share on roughly 110M shares. Down from a 52-week high near C$99 and about a third lower since January. Estimate from quoted price and share count.

Early October 2026

P/E (trailing twelve months)

≈ 18x

On about C$326M of net earnings (fiscal 2025 plus the first half of fiscal 2026, less the first half of fiscal 2025). My calculation, not a published figure.

EV / adjusted EBITDA

≈ 13x trailing, ≈ 9–10x forward

Enterprise value of about C$6.2B including C$477M of leases. Forward uses the September 2026 guidance midpoint: revenue up 26%, margin about 40%. Estimate.

IPO price

C$21

November 2024, a C$2.3B valuation. The shares have more than doubled since, even after the 2026 fall.

November 2024

What has to be true to justify the price

  1. 01The DCF inputs are in Canadian dollars, billions, with fiscal 2025 (year ended 31 January 2026) as the base year. The margin is operating income less lease interest, about 26% against a reported 28.8%. The playground taxes at 21%; the company's actual rate was about 28%, so the model is slightly generous. Net cash excludes leases. The share price is a rounded early-October 2026 quote.
  2. 02Revenue compounds at about 15% for five years. That is well below the 37% of fiscal 2025 and the 25–27% guided for fiscal 2026, but it assumes the US store build-out and the UK keep working long after the current comparable-sales boom fades. At 12% the model gives about C$50; at 20% with a 28% margin, about C$74.
  3. 03Gross margin stays above 60%. It has been there for two years, but it depends on buying late and marking down little, and one badly misjudged season would show up immediately.
  4. 04Tariffs and sourcing do not break the model. About three quarters of product came from China in 2025, and a retailer selling heavily into the US is exposed to every change in American trade policy.
  5. 05The controlling shareholder continues to run the company for minority shareholders as well as himself. Lutfy controls the votes, and also owns, through Carbonleo, Royalmount — the Montreal mall where one of the new Dynamite format stores opened. Related-party dealings are disclosed, but they are worth reading.

Run it yourself

Move the growth rate and the margin and watch the implied value move. Same inputs, live.

Open the playground

§05 — Capital allocation

The first capital allocation decision that matters is one most investors never saw: in September 2020 the company filed for creditor protection with about C$357M of liabilities, used the process to rewrite its leases and close weaker stores, and came out with a cost base it has been harvesting ever since. It kept its US business, which had 85 stores at the filing, rather than retreat to Canada, and by the IPO had 114 there. That was the right call, and the comparable sales of 2024 and 2025 are its result.

Since the IPO, the pattern is reinvest first and return the rest. Capital spending rose to C$85.5M in fiscal 2025, mostly new US Garage stores, renovations and a US distribution centre, with C$100–110M guided for fiscal 2026 and a target of 350 stores by the end of fiscal 2028. The bank debt is gone. The company began buying back stock in 2025 — 883,100 shares at an average of C$39.28 in fiscal 2025, which looks very good now, and 993,605 shares at an average of C$63.50 in the second quarter of fiscal 2026, which looks less good with the stock near C$53. The IPO itself raised nothing for the company: it was a secondary sale of about 14.3M shares by Lutfy's holding companies, at C$21. That is not a criticism, since the company did not need the money, but it means the IPO was a liquidity event for the owner rather than a capital-raising one.

2020 restructuring

Excellent

Used court protection to reset leases; came out with no bank debt by fiscal 2025 and better stores

US expansion

Core

85 US stores at the 2020 filing, 114 by the IPO, 20 more Garage openings in fiscal 2025 alone

Buybacks

Mixed

C$39 average in fiscal 2025, C$63.50 in Q2 fiscal 2026. The second batch is underwater at today's price.

Governance

Watch

One shareholder controls the votes and owns a mall the company leases in. Disclosed, but not small.

§06 — The thesis

Watch it

Groupe Dynamite is the most impressive operating story in the mall section of this library, and it is impressive for an unglamorous reason. Its two brands are not famous, its products are not unique, and its customers have more choice than any shopper in history. What it has built is a machine for being right about this season faster than its competitors, and the machine shows up in the numbers: a 64% gross margin, inventory that turns ten times a year, almost thirty cents of operating profit on every dollar, and no bank debt five years after it needed the courts to survive. The second-brand logic in the episode is the correct frame. Two customers, Garage's teenager and Dynamite's working woman, share one studio, one supply chain and one set of landlords, and the company gets the cost of one business and the reach of two.

The reason I am watching rather than owning is that the current price already assumes the machine keeps working for a long time, and fashion is the industry where that assumption fails most often. At about 18 times trailing earnings and roughly C$53 a share, my base case DCF gives a value only a little above the price, comparable sales have slowed from above 20% to about 10%, three quarters of the product depends on Chinese factories and American tariff policy, and the founder controls the votes. None of these is a reason to sell. Together they are a reason to wait for either a better price or another year of proof.

What would change my mind

If comparable sales hold above 8% through fiscal 2026 and 2027 while the gross margin stays above 62%, and the UK stores trade like the North American ones, the process is a durable advantage rather than a hot streak, and I would own it on any further fall. If instead comparable sales turn negative and the margin slips back toward the high 50s, the boom was the cycle, and the multiple would have further to fall.

§07 — How it happened

  1. 1975

    Garage opens at Place Versailles

    The first Garage store opens in Place Versailles, a shopping centre in east-end Montreal. For most of its life it is a casual-wear store for teenagers in Quebec malls.

  2. 1982

    A stock clerk at eighteen

    Andrew Lutfy starts part-time in the stockroom of the original store at 18. He rises into management and takes a minority stake within a few years; the McCord Museum's account has him buying the store from his father-in-law.

  3. 1984

    A second banner for an older customerThe fork

    Lutfy launches Dynamite for young working women, with dressier clothes, leaving Garage to the teenager. The Globe and Mail dates the launch to 1983; the McCord Museum and Wikipedia to 1984. Either way, the two-brand structure the episode describes dates from here.

  4. 2003

    Sole owner

    Lutfy becomes the sole owner of the company, after first earning a stake in exchange for his work. Through the 2000s the banners spread across Canada and, late in the decade, into the United States.

  5. 2020

    Creditor protectionThe fork

    On 8 September, with sales down about 50% on 2019 and liabilities of about C$357M, Groupe Dynamite files under Canada's CCAA, with a Chapter 15 filing in the US. It has 322 North American stores, 85 of them American. Lutfy calls the pandemic 'a corporate tsunami'. The company uses the process to rewrite leases and close weaker stores, and keeps its US business.

  6. 2024

    The IPOThe fork

    In November Lutfy's holding companies sell about 14.3M shares on the Toronto Stock Exchange at C$21, valuing the company at about C$2.3B. The company receives nothing; it does not need to. About 6,000 employees become shareholders through the company's share plan.

  7. 2025

    The best year in its history

    Comparable store sales grow 26.7%, revenue passes C$1.3B and the gross margin reaches 63.8%. Twenty new Garage stores open in the US, and a US distribution centre opens. The company begins buying back its own shares.

  8. 2026

    London, and a falling share price

    Garage launches online in the UK in February and opens at Bluewater and on Oxford Street in March. Revenue grows 37% and 30% in the first two quarters, but comparable sales slow to 10.3% and the shares fall to about C$53, from a peak near C$99.

§08 — Your turn

Case 34 — Groupe Dynamite · Andrew Lutfy · 2020

Your stores are closed, your rent is not, and the banks are owed C$149M. Do you put the company you have spent 38 years building into creditor protection?

It is September 2020 and you own all of a Montreal women's fashion retailer with two banners, Garage for teenagers and Dynamite for working women, and 322 stores in North America, 85 of them in the United States. The pandemic closed your stores in the spring, and sales are running about 50% below 2019. Online is growing fast, but not fast enough to pay rent on stores nobody can walk into. You owe about C$149M to a syndicate of four Canadian banks, and total liabilities are around C$357M against C$192M of assets. Your leases were signed for a world where malls were full. Your own model, buying late and in small quantities, means you are not sitting on a mountain of unsold stock, which is the one thing going for you.

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