Beyond the show — Inditex (Zara) · Amancio Ortega · 1990

Do you move production to Asia and match your rivals' costs, keep making everything close to home at a higher unit cost, or split the range between them?

You have around eighty Zara stores in Spain, a first store in Porto, one on Lexington Avenue in New York, and one about to open in Paris. Your factories are in Arteixo, outside A Coruña, with a network of sewing workshops across Galicia and northern Portugal. Your whole method since the first shop has been to watch what sells and change what the factory makes within days. Every large clothing company you compete with — Benetton, the Gap, C&A, soon H&M — is moving production to Asia, where a garment costs a third to a half less to make and takes three to six months to arrive. Your bankers can do the arithmetic on your labour costs. So can you.

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